Senja, Norway Part 1

March 7, 2024,

We are on a ski-touring trip to the Arctic Circle of Norway, near Tromso on the western coast.

Ski adventures do not qualify for mountaineering but the day we had today is definitely worth a mention. There are 6 of us: Olivia and I, Mark and Sarah, Jeremy and Andy, all relationships and friends from Staffordshire and then there’s Mark our guide.

Senja is actually an island and the activity here is to skin up any hill or mountain from sea level to a maximum of a thousand meters and then ski down. Weather and time permitting you repeat twice a day. We are here for six days.

Like any other day breakfast is at 7:30 but our farmer friend and sandwich maker is in the kitchen at 6am, the call from down under is at 6:45am, hence we are all well up by seven and ready to go by 08:30am.

Destination today is past Senjahopen, the biggest village on the island (20 houses) and 4 tunnels plus two stops for photos from where we are. Yes, the view around the island is spectacular; so plenty of panoramic shots.

Ski-touring is pretty painful in terms of gear and changes you have to make: you start with applying skins under your skis and opening your ski boots to allow flexibility; add poles, rucksack, hat or beanie, sunglasses or goggles, various layers of clothing. Preparation takes time.

We are ready to climb at around 10am.

Everything is well for the first hour on a steep incline and then the first drama of the day happens: Marco, the expert mountaineer, has not double clicked his front ski bindings; on a dodgy traverse both skis unclip and one decides to go back to the car park.

Guess who is skiing down to find the unfriendly ski. Marco tries skiing down on one ski and with skins. Mark shouts, then skis down and climbs back in less than 10minutes.

Another 10 minutes later the group is all together, this time in the sun to continue the ascent to the first peak. Steep climbing conditions and icing snow put to test the kick turning capabilities of the team until we reach a point where skis and skins cannot continue and it is time to boot leg up the final part of the journey.

Again superhero Mark the guide, tracks the steps to the top in the hard snow and then comes back to pick up the group and guide us in groups to a sledge below the peak. Awesome views for everyone, not much space to move, hence after the summit picture shots it’s time to ski down. 6 people sandwiched on a sledge, the taking the skins off and unpacking and packing the gear for the descent takes a few organisational skills but we’re soon ready to ski down.

Packed snow, iced over but softened by the sun makes for decent spring snow conditions, and we actually enjoy the run down which against a climb up of three hours takes barely 15min.

We stop on a bowl between the two peaks we have scheduled for today. We are allowed 15min for lunch and then it is up again. This to the North facing peak.

Gear change, skins on again and by 2pm we are climbing again. This time the snow is really icy, and it’s when guide Mark is putting a lot of effort in carving a track, that he loses his ski. Luckily it’s only back to the middle of the bowl and not the car park and it takes Mark only 10 to be back with the pack. But the snow is really compact ice, so, ski crampons (or couteaux) are called for and the group has the chance to test another piece of equipment. This is about the time when Mark’s (not the guide) cap falls towards the middle of the bowl. And this is the time that Mark (the guide) says: enough! Good bye cap!

We continue the ascent to the second peak virtually on a sheet of ice. We combat the last bit of rocks and ice to climb over the hump to the next valley for the final descent.

The snow is not good. When it is not icy, it is carved by the wind and extremely bumpy. But the sun is setting, the view over mountains and water is spectacular and the descent to the car is thoroughly enjoyable. We are back to the car by 04:30pm.

You would think the day is ended but it’s not. We still have time for some spectacular sunset pictures, Marco’s work call, and the stop to the local village store searching for wine and booze, which fails because in Norway alcohol is only sold under licence by specialty stores.

It’s Marco and Olivia time to cook and the recipe calls for vodka. The request to the pub to sell alcohol also fails because it can only be consumed on premises. So it is gin and salmon pasta rather than vodka and salmon but the taste was good enough and appreciated by the team.

And again the day could end on good food and a drink but Senja has a final surprise. It’s 9pm when the Northern Lights appear. “Aurora”, our friend, is initially shy but in full swing by 10pm and we are all out on the jetty till late to take the final pictures.

It’s 11pm now. Our heroes are all in bed, asleep, some snoring, some dreaming the kick turns they practiced today. I am closing this rather long post and going “under cover”.

And I am thinking: tomorrow we’re doing it all over again…..hopefully!!!!